Problem Behaviors in Cats
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Behavioral - Marking Territory:
- female in heat
- intact male (an intact male will oftentimes spray to mark its territory)
- sometimes a neutered male that has had previous sexual experience
when exposed to an in heat female may display this behavior
- walls near windows and peripheral walls may be used due to presence
of outdoor cats
- over-crowding may trigger "marking/spraying" behavior
Treatment:
- spay or neuter all cats
- prevent overcrowding of cats in multi-cat households
- close windows, curtains and doors to prevent outside cats from coming
around your house
Behavioral - Stress:
- change in numbers of pets in household (addition or subtraction)
parties, construction, visitors, moving to a new home, and other
types of upheaval or commotion, including returning from boarding
or hospitalization
- a new job or a change in working hours
- Remember that cats are
not pack animals and the more cats you have in the household, the more opportunity there is for the cats to get
stressed out because they cannot get away from each other
Treatment:
- if you know what the stressor is for your cat, try to eliminate
the problem whenever possible
- provide each cat with its own "space" - use boxes, shelves, crates,
cubicles, etc. to give each cat its own place
- use favorite resting areas to determine where each cats favorite
place may be and if possible, provide a separate litter box near
each space
Litter box problems and treatment:
- cats using same box - provide each cat with its own litter box
- dirty litter box - scoop and/or change litter daily
- change in type of litter used - switch back to previous brand
of litter
- litter box that is not always accessible - provide easy and constant
access to litter box
- change in location of litter box - move litter box back to previous
location
- unfamiliar or loud objects near box (i.e., washing machine, etc.)
- move litter box or eliminate noise if cat doesn't like its
litter box relocated. However, if your cat has a location preference
you can gradually move it back to where you want it over a period
of days (about a foot or two per day)
- cat does not like the feel of the litter - find a type or brand
of litter your cat likes
- location of litter box to food and water (too close) - move food
and water away from litter box
- cats that stand in the litter box but eliminate on the outside
of it - use a covered litter box instead
Attraction to site of previous "accidents":
- cats sometimes like to urinate where they or other animals
may have already had an "accident"
Treatment:
- clean areas with a commercial product (Nature's Miracle) or
50% vinegar to water solution
- rugs and other soiled fabrics should be thrown out
- do not replace wall-to-wall carpet until problem is solved
- steam clean soiled carpets (after cleaning area with Nature's
Miracle or other such product)
- repellents may help
If all else fails,
sometimes confining the cat can break the cycle. Confine the cat for 4-6
weeks in a kennel. You should put a litter box in the kennel.
Get dishes that hang or bolt to the door of the kennel so that the
cat doesn't get litter in food or water. Keep the cat in the kennel at all
times unless you can supervise it. If you allow the cat out of the kennel,
have a water spray bottle handy to squirt the cat if it attempts to urinate
any place but its litter box.
When the cat is consistently using its litter box gradually allow the
cat access to larger and larger areas of your house. If the cat relapses,
you can begin confinement over again and double intervals for any relapse.
If problem continues, you should consult with your veterinarian for other
alternatives.
For further information about feline house soiling, visit Dr. Susan Little's web site.*
